If there is an unloved member of the Thanksgiving table, I believe it to be the sweet potato. “Oh,” you’re thinking, “they’re so delicious and healthy! Full of fiber! Lots of vitamins!” You guys, I have tried, believe me, I have tried. But every time I eat a sweet potato—in any form—I find myself wishing it was a potato. The normal (not sweet) kind.
But you can’t celebrate Thanksgiving without sweet potatoes—they’re an integral part of the meal, just like Dad’s turkey smoked in the patio hibachi, sticky rice stuffing, and turkey congee the next day (at least that’s what we eat in MY family :) Last year, I signed up to bring sweet potatoes to my in-laws’ pot luck feast. I prepared a purée with lots of butter, cream, nutmeg, grated ginger, a generous dash of salt to balance the sweet. And I watched as it got dolloped on plates and pushed around, uneaten. I have to admit, it stung a little bit. Even if I was doing exactly the same thing.
This year, I signed up for sweet potatoes again, determined to find a dish that everyone would love—even me! I considered and discarded several recipes, things like sweet potatoes Anna (too much last-minute preparation, plus I’m scared of the mandolin), whipped chipotle sweet potatoes (too southwestern, too similar to last year), and sweet potato gratin (which would be delicious… with regular potatoes). And then I decided to take the sweet potatoes in an entirely new direction: Dessert!
Sweet potato ice cream comes from David Lebovitz’s terrific frozen dessert cookbook, The Perfect Scoop. It starts with a pound of boiled sweet potatoes, which you mix with milk, sugar, and a tiny sprinkle of cinnamon. Unlike most ice creams, the recipe is not a custard-base—there are no egg yolks, no cream. Instead, the puréed sweet potatoes create a luscious, velvety texture that’s offset by the maple-glazed pecans you stir in at the end. The result is like frozen pumpkin pie: creamy, cold, sweet, and faintly perfumed with cinnamon. I can’t wait to scoop it all over my plate of pie.
The other day, my in-laws sent out an email confirming everyone’s Thanksgiving contribution. “Ann mentioned roasted sweet potato,” wrote my husband’s stepmother. “Yes!” I responded, “I’m bringing sweet potatoes à la surprise!”
Sweet potato ice cream with maple-glazed pecans
Makes 1 quart
If you don’t have an ice cream maker, you should get one! I hesitated for a long time, but it’s SO much fun.