At the risk of public flagellation, I’m going to make a confession: We don’t eat a family dinner. I know, I know, research and lifestyle bloggers regularly tell us how important it is to gather round the table once a day. Babies eat a bigger variety of healthy foods, they connect with their parents, and obesity, drug use, teen pregnancy, etc. are all avoided. But here’s the reality: Lucy eats dinner at 5:30pm. (I sit with her and appease her demand for stories. “Boook. Boook,” she says, reaching to touch pictures of dogs with avocado-smeared fingers.) Her father gets home at 8pm (or later), and I usually eat with him. Right now, while she’s still so little, Lucy’s dinner simply exists on a separate plane from ours.
I’m sure things will change once she gets older (e.g. stays up past 7pm). But for now I tamper my guilt by preparing one family meal of the week. On Saturday mornings while Lucy and her papa are out, I whirl around the kitchen like a madwoman. When they come home at noon, we sit down to lunch, the three of us all eating the same thing. I try not to dumb down the food too much, because part of the exercise is about community and expanding the palate. On the other hand, there’s always the fear that she won’t eat anything. I try to split the difference, which is how I found myself making spinach soufflé for a toddler.
Soufflé aux épinards sounds labor intensive and it does use its fair share of pots and bowls. But really, a soufflé is just a very thick, egg-yolk enhanced béchamel sauce, mixed with whipped egg whites—a simple concept that’s also a good way to eat spinach if you don’t have many teeth. I started with the recipe from Mastering the Art of French Cooking and adapted it to suit my needs. This meant frozen chopped spinach squeezed dry, and enough eggs to fill an 8-cup soufflé dish X 2 — because I made an extra for the freezer, to be defrosted for weeknight baby dinners.
Soufflés need an extra whipped white or two to give them lift, which means you’ll have yolks leftover. Here’s a thrifty tip: mix them with sugar (one teaspoon per yolk) and freeze for later use in homemade ice cream.
Use a light hand when folding the béchamel sauce and egg whites together—don’t worry if they’re not completely combined. I like to leave large dollops of whipped whites streaking through the thick sauce, which I think allows for a more extravagant rise.
I timed lunch perfectly that day, everyone seated at the table, salad dressed, baby bibbed, and baguette sliced, just as the timer dinged. I felt unusually smug as I surveyed my beautiful soufflé, which puffed gently over the rim of the dish, golden with toasted cheese. Parenting can sometimes feel like a relentless slog, but then there are moments like this: sitting down with your little pack, your family, to enjoy a home-cooked meal together.
And then there is reality. Don’t let this picture fool you—Lucy ate two bites of soufflé and I had to beg her to even put those in her mouth. Like most babies, she eats when she’s hungry (a novel concept!) and that afternoon she was not hungry. (She went on to scoff a huge portion at dinner the next day, so all is not lost.)
What are your favorite family meals?
Spinach soufflé / Soufflé aux épinards
Adapted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking
Serves four (on its own) or six (with a salad)
Julia Child’s soufflé recipes use a 6-cup dish, but I increased the quantities for an 8-cup dish because I feel like if you’re going to make a soufflé, you might as well go big. Leftover soufflé is delicious, though no longer airy, I still enjoy the denser texture—and the taste remains the same, of course.
1 package frozen chopped spinach, defrosted
3 1/2 tablespoons butter
4 1/2 tablespoons flour
1 1/2 cups milk
6 egg yolks
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
Salt and pepper to taste
8 egg whites
1/2 cup grated Gruyère or Comté cheese
Butter to grease dish and 1-2 tablespoons fine bread crumbs
Special equipment: 8-cup soufflé dish, electric beaters
Preheat the oven to 400ºF.
Thoroughly squeeze the liquid from the chopped spinach. Butter the soufflé dish and sprinkle with enough breadcrumbs to generously coat the interior, tapping out the excess (this prevents sticking).
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the flour and cook until it smells slightly toasty, about 2 minutes. Add the milk, whisking continuously until the mixture forms a very thick sauce, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat.
Separate the eggs, dropping the whites into a large, clean, dry mixing bowl. (Any trace of fat will cause failed whipped whites, so make sure your bowl is scrupulously sparkling clean.)
Whisk the egg yolks, one by one, into the hot béchamel sauce, until fully incorporated. Add the chopped spinach and stir until thoroughly combined. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg (the egg is raw, but I usually taste at this stage so I can adjust seasonings; sample at your own risk).
Add a pinch of salt to the egg whites and beat them until stiff. Stir one quarter of them into the sauce (this lightens the mixture). Add all but 1 tablespoon of the cheese. Gently fold the rest of the egg whites into the sauce and spoon the mixture into the prepared dish. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese and place on the middle rack of the preheated oven. Turn the oven down to 375ºF and bake for 30-35 minutes until the soufflé is puffed, golden, and slightly jiggly when you shake the dish. Serve immediately.
The Aftermath.
That brings back such a fun memory. Many mango seasons ago, when I was just married & testing my cooking wings, I made a perfect spinach souffle. My husband & I both oooohed & aaahed over it. It tasted delicious, but both of us hesitated to tell the other we didn’t like eating air. How could something so perfect, not be?
Ann, I am sharing this on my Google+ page even though I don’t see a “share this” for Google+. Such beautiful photos here, too!
LOL, Betty. Loved your comment about eating air. And, Ann, this looks so scrumptious! Almost as scrumptious as Lucy. In any case, thanks for the recipe and delightful story. If it makes you feel better, our family no longer eats together, except a few times a month. And these days I rarely even eat with my husband, now that I’ve gone back to eating at “l’heure des poules”, as he calls it (“chicken hour”. I guess that means anytime between 5pm and 7pm.)
Betty — Haha, love your story! I’ll never think of soufflés the same way. (PS You might enjoy leftover soufflé!)
Trina — Thank you! I just tried to add a Google+ share button, but succeeded in only adding an email envelope. I’ll investigate further…
Kristi — I loved your IG comment about the meatloaf — one of my favorites, disliked by everyone in my household, sauf moi. Why don’t you make a trip to NYC and I’ll cook us a big meatloaf dinner to eat at 5:30? ;) Chicks night!
Wow, Ann, that looks delicious! Might just have to go ahead and try it.
Ann,
I’m not familiar with freezing a soufflé. What a great idea!
Is it frozen before or after baking?
Souffle looks delicious, and Lucy is just too cute for words–
Meg — In your talented hands, I’m sure something even more marvelous will emerge out of this recipe!
Julie — Ah, I should clarify — it’s frozen LEFTOVER soufflé, which means the texture is no longer airy, but dense — still delicious! I bake the soufflé, and then cut it into portions, wrap each individually, and freeze. It makes a lovely box lunch (I just ate some today!)
Joy — Aw, thank you!
This is lovely and adorable on so many levels! And that soufflé…I’m not surprised Lucy came around!
Oh thank god, we aren’t the only ones who can’t manage a family dinner! With my daughter being almost 3, she eats at 5:30 and is randomly picky so that’s always rough…my husband works rotating 12 hour shifts so I try to eat with him whenever I can or send dinner with him so he can eat before he gets home at 10pm the days he works. It’s crazy! Thanks for making me feel like I’m not a lousy parent for not having a set family dinner time :). I am totally trying this recipe too – looks amazing – we’ll see if the toddler of the house agrees!
She’s so cute. My first used to go to bed at 6:30 so there weren’t any family dinners until she was much older. All in due course.
Over the years I have found that our favorite family meals are the ones where my wife and daughter cook together, or my daughter and I do so. this makes the food choices unanimous and provides an opportunity to spend time together that is also productive and has a reward at the end. This started when she was in elementary school and continues to this day when she is home for a holiday. She is now 28.
This is what you have to look forward to. It doesn’t matter what you cook.
I enjoy your stories and recipes. We are forever grateful for your suggestions of where to shop and eat in the 5th in Paris where we go each year.
My dear Ann, I think you’ve buried the lede. In fact, it’s buried so deep it’s almost the post-script. You have a toddler who eats spinach soufflé! She may be the only one. At least in the U.S. I think this says far more about parenting success than the “fail” of not having regular family dinners.
Superlative souffle!
I love the picture of little Lucy. Even if she didn’t love it on the first try she looks so interested and so eager to try it. It is obvious she’s learning about the joys of good food.
Oh Lucy’s so cute Ann! and did I ever say I just love the name Lucy?
Anyway, re: foodie things, babies and kids do it right – eat when they’re hungry, the rest of us should do the same! And your soufflé looks so puffed up and wonderful :)
My favourite meals as a kid (and still are, let’s face it) were cheesy spaghetti, fish fingers with baked beans and dad’s fried chicken, green beans and mashed potato.
Your soufflé is beautiful! Never thought to make it for my son but it’s a brilliant idea. you can never tell with kids, they’ll turn their nose up at something one day and scarf it down the next. Keep trying, that’s all we can do! Lucy is too cute!
There is no way on earth my now 18 year old would eat this marvelous creation; Then as toddler or now as an almost adult. He is defiantly cheese averse still.
Brava to you for introducing the many wonderful delicious things to that ridiculously cute girl of your. Something will stick.
Promise.
Lindsey — I’ve got to introduce her to foie gras! :)
Emily R. — Thank you!!!!! I am so happy to know I’m not alone! I have to admit, I suspect most parents (of babies) who claim they eat a family meal are… exaggerating ;) Hope you try the recipe!
Anne — At least we have our breakfasts together. “Oats!”
Richard — I can’t wait until Lucy and I cook and bake together. I loved hearing about your experiences with your daughter. Already, we make scrambled eggs (she loves to whisk :)
Shannon — Haha, it’s no great feat when the spinach tastes like butter, eggs, and cheese! :)
Jeanne — Thank you! Lucy and I are learning together!
Emma — Thanks for your sweet comment. And ain’t it the truth about eating when we’re hungry? Babies are wise. By the way, your favorite meals sound like MY favorite meals! Fried chicken, mashed potatoes — yum!
Pat — Totally agree — feeding the babies is an exercise in patience and trying things over and over and over. But the good news is, hope springs eternal at every meal! :)
Gillian — Haha, cheese averse — shhhh, don’t tell Lucy that’s a possibility! :) xo
That soufflé looks too good to eat! I love soufflés in any combo or form … appetizer, entree, or dessert! Thanks for a delicious post. Lucy is getting so grown up so fast! Has she ever tried a chocolate soufflé?
I am late with my comment and am wondering if the flour could be gluten free or if you think using gluten free flour would negatively affect the souffle.
As for favorite food, anything with mashed potatoes.
We had grilled fish (hake) tacos last night for Sunday supper. I used a Cook’s Illustrated marinade for the fish, then whipped up a quick grated carrot salad and some homemade guacamole to go on them. Our five year old daughter devoured it.
Lynde — I haven’t cooked with gluten-free flour, but as long as you can make a béchamel with it, I don’t see why it wouldn’t work — let me know how it turns out!
SassyinDC — That sounds delightful! I’ve been eating a lot of carrot salad this winter :) What a lovely meal to start the week!
1 family meal a week is quite fine. I like your blog & book!
(Tamp! Scarf!)
This is such a great post–and not only for the fun thrifty egg yolk and sugar tip (thank you!) or for the adorable picture of Lucy the Ladylike Souffle Eater, but because it gives me a little nudge in the direction of finally (finally!) making a souffle. You make it sound so easy and perhaps it really is!
As for favorite family meals, we really like a good grilled cheese with avocado, greens and mayo–tomato too, but only if it’s in season. Another favorite is a risotto, which borders on the decadent, but, like a souffle, is inherently doable and adaptable.