Last week I went to Burgundy for a few days. Though the purpose of my trip was to eat research boeuf Bourguignon — I’m saving tales of wine-braised beef, garlicky snails, and liquid Epoisses cheese for a chapter in my new book — I also spent a lot of time driving (over 620 miles in four days!) and marveling at the tints of gold, bronze, and red creeping across the leafy landscape.
Yes, mes amis, fall has arrived — at least in the wine region known as the Côte d’Or.
Further south, on the Charolais plain, things are a little greener, with some hints of rust. By the way, those white dots in the distance are the region’s famous Charolais cattle.
I first visited Burgundy in March 2010 when the weather was decidedly snappier. I was delighted to return under more clement temperatures — and to stay again at the Villa Louise, a cozy hotel in Aloxe-Corton (a village ten minutes from Beaune), with red-and-white stitched quilts and a ragtag black cat.
I remembered the kitty from my last visit and, judging from his interest in me at breakfast, he remembered me, too — or at least the scraps of ham that I surreptitiously fed him under the table.
When you eat boeuf Bourguignon for four days in a row, you have to plot the rest of your meals very carefully. Happily, the kind ladies at the Villa Louise indulged me, preparing light breakfasts of whole wheat toast, homemade jam, and baked apples, which allowed me to spend the rest of the day indulging in braised meat, runny cheese, buttery mashed potatoes…
…And wine, wine, wine and more wine.
9 rue Franche
tel: 03 80 26 46 70