French food news: What’s open in August?
By Ann | July 3, 2009
Paris sizzled this week with temps in the 90s (thankfully things have cooled down today), but all that hot weather only begs the question: What Paris restaurants will remain open during July and August? Luckily, Le Figaroscope comes to the rescue, dedicating this week’s issue to “Les Tables ouvertes pendant les vacances” (The tables open during vacation). The list of twenty restaurants covers outdoor dining spots, bistros (including La Fontaine de Mars), non-French food, and more. Check out the list, including addresses here.
In other news, what would the Fourth of July be without hamburgers? The NY Times dissects the ideal burger — the secret? A 70 to 30 ratio of fat to meat. Sigh. Check out the article here; also there’s a fun interactive chart detailing each element of the perfect burger here.
If you’re growing tomatoes like me, perhaps you’re wondering why your plants aren’t thriving? According to this AP article, late blight, the same disease that caused the mid-19th century Irish potato famine, is striking the East Coast this summer. According to the article, it specifically attacks tomatoes and it’s “worse than the bubonic plague for plants.” Yikes!
French restaurant bills are officially lower now that the restaurant tax has dropped from 19.6% to 5.5%. But according to an AP article, the drop is not enough to lure diners into restaurants. To be fair, I’m not sure results would be seen after one day — especially since this week’s sweltering heat hasn’t exactly inspired big appetites.
Finally, here are some pretty pictures from a sunny, Saturday afternoon at the Pompidou Center. Their roof terrace offers some of the best views in Paris, which usually can only be enjoyed while eating at Georges, the overpriced restaurant there. But here’s a tip: If you arrive before 6.30pm, you can have a lovely, cool drink on the terrace while admiring the view. Warning: the staff starts setting up the dinner service at 7pm, so it’s imperative you arrive before 6.30pm. The galleries stay open until 11pm, so after your drink you can finish wandering.
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Topics: Food Wednesday, In the news | 1 Comment »
Work
By Ann | June 30, 2009
Call me crazy, but working in Paris has always sounded incredibly romantic to me. I know it’s weird, but the idea of a job, an office with colleagues, the camaraderie, the structure, (the opportunities to practice French), just seemed so darn appealing. Plus, I couldn’t help picture myself bicycling home in the golden dusk, with a baguette tucked under my arm.
Well, lo and behold, my wish was granted a few weeks ago when I started my new job at the American Library in Paris. I’m organizing cultural events there, which means arranging author readings with people like novelist Joseph O’Neill, (who is speaking tomorrow on Netherland — click here if you’d like to come), or memoirist Susan Jane Gilman. The job is part-time so I can still poke around the market, update you on my gardening (interesting only to me, I know), continue this blog, and scour Facebook, er, I mean, work on freelance stories (and maybe start a new book?!). I have wonderful colleagues, I (sometimes) speak French, and, best of all, my walk to work includes the view above. As the French say, pas mal.
If you’d like to come to one of the Library’s Evenings with an Author — which are free, open to the public and include wine and snacks! — please check out the calendar of events here. And if you do stop by, be sure to say hello!
Topics: Uncategorized | 6 Comments »
French food news: Paris’s best new restaurants (to date)
By Ann | June 27, 2009
Bonjour, mes amis, and welcome to another edition of French food news. What’s going on in the French food media this week? Le Figaroscope has a super-helpful roundup of twenty new Parisian restaurants — the best places to visit this summer. Heading up the list is a restaurant I really want to try, Yam Tcha (4 rue Sauval, 1er, tel: 01 40 26 08 07). Le Fig says: “A minimalist, dim interior, sixteen sets, and a kitchen manipulated confidently by a young female chef, formerly of the 3-star l’Astrance. The result? Menus that delight daily, without artifice; a combination of modernity, intuition and Asia, beautiful produce, and culinary science. Strong gastronomy, as is seldom seen; surely, the revelation of the season.” WOW!
Lots of other intriguing places mentioned on Le Fig’s list, (including a California-style sushi place, Rice & Fish (22 rue Grenata, 2ème, tel: 01 73 70 46 09), which, come to think of it, is probably only of interest to people who live in Paris — because if you’re visiting the City of Light, who wants to eat tempura-stuffed maki?). Click here for the article, including lots more recommended restaurants and addresses.
Almost more interesting than the article itself is its sidebar, a preview of places to open in the Fall. Highlights:
–Eric Fréchon, Paris’s newest 3-star chef at the Bristol, will open a second restaurant in the same hotel. He’ll also oversee Mini-Palais, a chic cafeteria in the Grand Palais.
–Star pâtissier Philippe Conticini will open a new boutique on rue du Bac, where he’ll focus on classic desserts (no foie gras macarons for him).
–An American chef in Paris, Daniel Rose, will finally open his new restaurant in the 1st. Spanning three floors, it’s a much larger, more ambitious venue than his original eatery, Spring.
–Have you ever wanted to dine while floating in the sky? From September 11-15, Cuisine Créative will launch (quite literally) their newest venture in the Jardin des Tuileries: a table in a gondola, 50 meters above the ground, with food provided by Paris’s greatest chefs. If you think that sounds crazy, check out the photos — not to mention the prices (um, €1400 per person?!). Click here for Le Fig’s full article on the Fall preview.
In other, Anglophone, news, Publishers Weekly has a short but interesting Q&A with Diane Abrams of Gourmet, on the highs and lows of the magazine’s cookbook club.
In the NY Times, columnist Alex Witchel wonders why Italians don’t drink spirits with food. The answer? The two just don’t taste very good together. Hm, I think the whole of Europe could have told her that. The accompanying recipe for meaty, cheesy, melty risotto balls sounds delicious but way too labor intensive (especially since I don’t deep fry).
For a glimpse of gritty, real-time China, the blog Breathing in Beijing, offers witty observations on internet firewalls, calender regulated heat and air-conditioning, traffic, pathetic Chinese TV (they are showing highlights from the 2008 Olympics in constant rerun), and more.
Hungry for pizza? I ate at one of my favorite Paris pizzerias, Maria Luisa, last night and updated the post with new and improved (eg: not blurry) photos. Check it out here.
Finally, how can I share a lovely Paris day with you? I spent a happy hour yesterday photographing the gorgeous flowers at the Jardin du Luxembourg. What color! Variety! Texture! Enjoy the pretty pictures!
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Topics: Food Wednesday, In the news | 1 Comment »
Indian, everyday
By Ann | June 25, 2009
I could eat Indian food everyday, and so I was delighted to discover Monica Bhide’s new book, Modern Spice: Inspired Indian Flavors for the Contemporary Kitchen, which offers an easy-breezy, 21st-century spin on subcontinental spice. My review of this fresh, piquant book appeared yesterday on the Washingtonian magazine website.
Click here to read my review, and here for my favorite recipe from the book — potato-peanut tikkis (mini pancakes) that are sweet, savory and spicy with a delicate crunch. (Hint: Use a full teaspoon of cayenne pepper for a satisfying kick. And don’t forgo the tamarind chutney — it provides the tang that ties everything together.)
Topics: Cooking the Books | 3 Comments »
A year in a French market: Dog days?
By Ann | June 24, 2009
It snuck in so quietly that I didn’t realize it had arrived until it was already here. Summer, I mean. And while Paris’s recent cool temperatures don’t necessarily scream seasonal, the produce doesn’t lie: the market is full of early summer fruit, and by that I mean cherries. The best ones are dark and firm, and eaten on the sly, stolen from a bowl in the communal kitchen at the office. Shhh!
Perhaps an early onset of summer dog days contributed to a recent incident involving my friend G. and his car. On the cusp of leaving Paris, G. decided to sell his vehicle; he placed an ad which garnered some interest and was feeling quite positive about an impending sale… Until he answered a phone call from his wife…
It turns out a 160 lb Rottweiler had escaped from the window of a chambre de bonne, one of those attic rooms that used to house maids but are now mostly studio apartments. Frightened, the dog ran wildly along the roof until it lost its footing and plummeted seven stories — landing right on the hood of G’s car. The dog? Sadly, dead. The car? Also, dead. Sad. Poor dog. (Although, what were its owners thinking? It could have killed someone!) Also, poor G., who essentially lost his car (when we last spoke it was unclear whether or not his insurance would cover the damage).
The moral of the story? I’m not sure. Don’t let your 160 lb dog escape from a window? Don’t park your car under the windows of a chambre de bonne?
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Topics: A year in a French market: Summer | 4 Comments »
French food news: Snobby Paris, best mojitos, and some good news for restaurant diners
By Ann | June 19, 2009
Bonjour, mes amis! Welcome to another edition of French food news. Alors, what’s going on in the French food media this week? Le Figaroscope devotes their weekly round-up to Paris’s best mojitos. Interesting for some, perhaps, though I am not a fan of the sweet drink, plus anything having to do with mint makes me sad right now, given my mint plant’s whitefly infestation. So, I’ll just tell you, their winning mojito can be found at… Bar du Costes (Hôtel Costes, 239 rue St-Honoré, 1er, tel: 01 42 44 50 25). For more mojito mojo, including additional addresses, click for the article here.
This week, Le Fig also examines “Les Snobismes de 2009,” that is, fifty things to drink, to say, to wear — essentially everything you need to know to be a snob. So much material here, but I’ll cover the food aspects: Snobs go to Grom (81 rue de Seine, 6ème), “the best gelateria on the Left Bank.” They eat sarrasin, or buckwheat “en galettes.” They love parsnips. They use phrases like: “Je suis un couteau suisse,” meaning: “I do everything.” Or “Je suis un hamster,” to say, I’m totally stressed out! For more snobbery, check out the full article here.
In other news, restaurant diners in France have something to celebrate. Starting July 1, the tax levied in cafés and restaurants will be reduced from 19.6% to 5.5%!
Finally, given my love for cookbooks, I’m always thrilled to learn about another cookbook store. I can’t wait to visit Pasadena’s Cook Books by Janet Jarvits, a shop that offers more 30,000 used, rare and hard-to-find titles. Those that can’t make it to Southern California for a good browse need fear not — all books are also for sale on her website. (Thanks to Mavette for sending!)
Happy Friday, mes amis, and happy eating!
Topics: Food Wednesday, In the news | 4 Comments »
Adventures in gardening
By Ann | June 17, 2009
A few weeks ago, I blogged about my thriving window box garden, a post I can only describe now as very, very foolish. Or, perhaps, cursed. You see, ever since then, my plants have been struggling. First, there was the root rot that plagued my geraniums, caused by too much rain and over-zealous watering (The grumpy woman at the Garden Center gave me some advice: “Only water them once a week,” she scolded me. “Geraniums like to suffer.”) Then my rosemary starting turning yellow (again, over-watering). And now, there are the aphids.
They are devouring my mint plant, and I can’t get rid of them! The damage started out as small, mysterious holes, dotted here and there. It’s moved on to black smudges, devoured leaves, and a horrid stickiness that clings to every surface. Between the aphids and (unintentional) over-watering, my mint plant is dying. It’s mint-icide!
Over a week ago, I doused the plant with a vegetable-oil-and-water spray, which hasn’t had much (any) effect. But my low point came this morning when I spotted a ladybug on one of my lavender plants. You know, a ladybug, as in the mortal enemy of aphids. I plucked her off the lavender stem and carried the poor creature to my mint plant, placing her gently on a leaf. Bon appétit, I thought. Of course, when I looked at the plant six hours later, she was gone and the mint seems as droopy as ever.
Tomorrow I plan to begin another course of spray treatment: water, mixed with drops of dish soap, crushed garlic and chili flakes. Granted, I have now spent more on spray bottles than I did on the original plant (2.50€). Never mind. I have declared a fatwa on aphids. I will keep you posted.
Topics: Jardinage | 4 Comments »
French food news: Romantic, cool, large, or kid-friendly tables in Paris (not necessarily together)
By Ann | June 13, 2009
Bonjour, mes amis, and welcome to another edition of French food news. Minnie the cat (photo above) is wondering, and I’m sure you are too… What’s going on in this week’s French food media? (Besides, that is, more swooning over Obama’s visit to Paris.) Alors, this week Le Figaroscope finally breaks free of its al fresco dining search to rank restaurants in four very different categories: 1) Most romantic/sexy, 2) Most hip-hop-potamus (that’s “hip” for all you non-Flight of the Conchords fans), 3) Best for large groups, 4) Best for kids. They’ve lumped all these divergent themes under one heading: “A Chaque Situation, sa table,” which translates literally to “A table for each situation.” A better title would have been: We don’t have enough material to squeeze a full article out of any of these categories, so we’ll just make up something general and throw them all together.
Most romantic/sexy – I thought Le Restaurant de l’Hôtel sounded pretty interesting. Oscar Wilde died in this very hotel, Serge Gainsbourg lived here, and now you can seduce your date here. Le Fig says: The restaurant resembles a baroque boudoir, sporting a panther-print carpet and curtains. It also boasts an excellent starred chef, Philippe Bélissent, whose high-flying cuisine pairs marvelously with the glamourous settings.
Hip Tables – This category is not really my bag, but Café Germain has been getting a lot of press recently. It’s owned by the inimitable Costes brothers and is this season’s scene sensation.
Best for Groups – Les Papilles is a tiny, popular wine bar and shop in the 5th that’s often packed. Le Fig says: Remember there’s a small dining room in the basement that can welcome up to 15 people — there’s even a plasma TV screen for rugby fans or workaholics. Enjoy good market-inspired cuisine and some superb bottles of wine.
Best for Kids – Now this is cool: In an effort to teach tweens about gastronomy (only in France!), Atelier Maître Albert invites tweens and teens aged 12-17 to dine for FREE if accompanied by two adults. Le Fig recommends the spit-roasted rôtisserie fish and meat.
For the rest of this article, including more suggestions and addresses, click here.
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Topics: Food Wednesday, In the news | 2 Comments »
Where the Obamas ate in Paris
By Ann | June 10, 2009
Maybe you’ve heard — Paris had five very special visitors over the weekend: President Obama, the First Lady, First Daughters Malia and Sasha and First Grandma Marian Robinson. And yes, we know the family climbed the belfry at Notre Dame, visited the Eiffel Tower at sunset, and toured the galleries of the Centre Pompidou. But let’s cut to the real question: Where did the Obamas eat?
According to our high-level sources (okay, that would be Le Figaro), Obama and Michelle dined Saturday at la Fontaine de Mars, an old-fashioned bistro in the 7ème, that’s right next door to the Eiffel Tower. Joining them was one of the girls (unspecified), an American writer (”une écrivaine Americaine” says the article, so we know it was a woman), and a fifth person (”une cinquième,” so also a woman). President Obama was “très gentil” with all the staff, tucking into gigot d’agneau, or leg of lamb, and îles flottantes (a soft meringue-like dessert), all of which was first tested by a secret service agent. He washed down his meal with ”pas de vin, juste de l’eau” (no wine, just water). The rest of the table enjoyed steak and crème brûlée. President Obama picked up the approximately 300€ check.
My two cents? With its old-fashioned air, traditional food and not over-the-top prices, la Fontaine de Mars has many followers. I ate there in 2004 and still remember my entrée of oeuf en meurette, an egg poached in red wine, a classic dish that I first read about in Julia Child. Alas, Fontaine is also very touristy — it’s mentioned in 99% of American guidebooks (including Rick Steves), and is frequented by Anglophones. Personally, I prefer the modern fish restaurant that shares the square, Les Fables de la Fontaine.
On Sunday, Michelle and her daughters had dinner at la Cigale Récamier, which is located right around the corner from Cooking the Books headquarters (aka my apartment)! No word on what they ate, but Cigale is well-known for its soufflés — I recently enjoyed their Henri IV, a cheese soufflé served with a chicken and mustard sauce. You create a hole in the top of the soufflé and spoon in the creamy sauce so that it mingles with the melting egg whites. Their dessert soufflés are also pretty delicious, especially the Grand Marnier, which arrives with its very own miniature bottle so that you can sprinkle on the orange liqueur with abandon.
My two cents? Frequented by French film stars, politicians and writers, Cigale has a see-and-be-seen-scene, but the food is well-prepared, prices are not too outrageous, and I have yet to meet someone who wasn’t charmed by a soufflé. Plus, in the summer Cigale has a delightful, enormous terrace so you can dine under the shimmering, late-summer Parisian sky. One of my favorite restaurants!
La Fontaine de Mars
129 rue St-Dominique, 7ème
01 47 05 46 44
La Cigale Récamier
4 rue Récamier, 7ème
01 45 48 86 58
Topics: Dining Out and About, In the news | 6 Comments »
French food news: Paris’s al fresco MANIA, 1930s-era chow, and cute-cuter-cutest!
By Ann | June 5, 2009
Bonjour, mes amis, and welcome to another edition of French food news! Let’s see, what’s going on in the French food media this week (and also last week)? It’s officially al fresco MANIA for Le Figaroscope, which has now covered Paris’s outdoor dining spots three weeks in a row.
Two weeks ago, there were gardens to dine in, and then last week’s issue was dedicated to this year’s newest sidewalk tables or terraces. Of particular interest to me was Al Taglio, a new branch of the well-known Roman pizzeria, located in the 11th; le Fig says: “We like the crafty concept of this unusual pizzeria. The pizzas, prepared throughout the day, are cut in slices and sold by weight. Among the 15 or so creations are gorgonzola-pear, smoked ham-mushrooms-ricotta, bacon-cream of pumpkin…” Click here for the rest of the article, including addresses.
And then there’s this week’s Le Fig, which lists 10 tables “bien en place,” or restaurants that open up onto a beautiful, tranquil square, or place. Among them is Les Fables de la Fontaine in the 7th, which serves elegant, modern fish, and is one of my favorite restaurants; their outdoor tables are right at the Fontaine de Mars. Le Fig says: “So photogenic, with its arcades and central fountain from which the water runs through bronze ornaments. To dine here on the terrace one summer night is to savour a Paris quiet, calm, as if time is forgotten.” Click here to view the other nine, including addresses (though frankly I found this piece a bit of a stretch… as if they’re running out of ideas).
Let’s see, what else? Last Sunday’s NYTBR had a funny, fascinating book review of The Food of a Younger Land, a collection of depression-era food writing that is like a time capsule to the 1930s. What were Americans eating back then? Everything from fried beaver tail to a strange Los Angeles sandwich called the taco. Check out the review here. (Thanks to Lee for forwarding!)
Meanwhile, as if enough ink hasn’t been spilled over the dining options at the new Mets Citi Field and Yankee (boo hiss) Stadium, last week Frank Bruni threw in his two cents here. And guess what? He mostly agreed with my assessment, proclaiming the Shake Shack burger “juicy, beefy and irresistible.” At least the Mets win the epicurean subway series.
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Topics: Food Wednesday, In the news | 2 Comments »